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The fashion world in Lisbon is celebrating: Yesterday began the 38th edition of Lisbon Fashion Week, Moda Lisboa, with their prospects for the next autumn/winter collection. Under the theme ‘Freedom’, the designers have abused their creativity in collections that promise a lot of vivacity and sensuality.
The night began with the premiere of Say My Name, a new talent launched by the LAB platform. Catarina Siqueira sought oriental inspiration in samurais and kimonos to design their pieces. This inspiration generated oversized look, but with a strong structure that resembles the armor of warriors (including armor accessories) as overlapping plates (shoulders and abdomen) and raglan sleeves. The asymmetry in blocks of colors was the key point in this collection. To contrast with the traditional black of the season, the designer chose shades of cooper, orange and a soft tone of lavender. The sum of these factors makes the designs result in a casual and comfortable look prioritizing jersey and the felt 3D technology. The makeup was simple; a well-made skin with almost no blush, emphasis on black eyeliner and a brown shade imitating the trace of the eyeliner in the concave of the eye. The hair also had oriental inspiration.
The second fashion show was provided by the White Tent. The designer pair bet on a minimalist collection, with comfort and usability at the center of their pieces. The predominantly black was broken with a beautiful shade of blue, pink, orange and copper tones. Adidas sneakers fit perfectly with the minimal and sportive propose of the dual. Again, the jersey was present in a collection to give life and asymmetries to the overlapping pieces. For hair and makeup the word of order was convenience, following the trend of the clothes with a healthy skin tone with just slightly smoky eyelids in shades of gray and blue and a casual hair bun.
The collection of the Bosnian designer Lidija Kolovrat showed off pieces that “are themselves a study” to explore more casual ways to use them. The pieces have been restructured following the oversized trend with a strong asymmetry. The goal of the designer was to explore the shapes and create vertical silhouettes to involve the body, in contrast with the draped structured forms and transparency. Besides the classic black and gray, the color palette had shades of purple, blue and graphic prints. The detail in the makeup was on account of a dramatic cat eye, but the highlight of the production was the hat with long hairpieces.
To end the first night in a big way, Louis Buchinho squandered sensuality and elegance on a collection made to move from the runway to the Portuguese sidewalks. The goal of the designer was “put the sidewalk in high heels”, betting on tight lines to give femininity and sensuality to your creation. The collection was marked by the graphics and the asymmetry that the Portuguese sidewalk provide, which were highlighted by the sobriety of the chosen colors, shades of gray, beige and blue, and the classic black and white. The makeup and hair were simple and followed the autumn/winter trend showed in the fashion weeks of Milan and Paris; loose and slightly curled hair allied with beautiful lips in a fabulous shade of wine to make the models look divine.
Not just the catwalk, which was an explosion of creativity and style, did justice to the theme of this fashion week: The onlookers were equally dressed in the code of ‘Freedom’. Always eclectic, the style of the public made the smooth transitions between the classic and modern in the blink of an eye, a mix of styles, colors and accessories, making the crowd around you a second fashion show as soon as the main one turn off the lights.
Today the event continues with the collections of V!tor (LAB), Katty Xiomara, Dino Alves and Ricardo Preto. With great expectations we look forward to the second night of the Lisbon Fashion Week 2012.
Images & Story: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga