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On a hot afternoon in Lisbon, the catwalks was boiling and many designers were cheered and received standing ovations in another great night of Moda Lisboa — the Lisbon Fashion Week. The designers on Saturday gave a formidable show of elegance and sophistication. The excellence of the materials, the maturity of the collection the cut and details of the pieces provided refinement worthy of a gala evening.
The hot Lisbon afternoon began with the parade of jewelry designer Valentine Quaresma. Based on microscopic pictorial patterns, the collection was titled “Virus”, investing in silver as a trend.
The second and third show were from the LAB. The first by Os Burgueses, who presented the collection “Home”, proposing a “journey in discovery [of] what binds us to each other” with a lot of synthetic leather, poplin and jersey pieces in predominantly black and gray, but red and dark blue was present to liven the casual look for day and night. The menswear designer Daniel Diniz presented the second show from the LAB platform. With a very basic proposal and sportswear influenced by Tibet, what we saw was a “mixture of baseball players, Tibetan monks, nomads, vagabonds and martial art fighters.” The highlight was bare feet and “dirty” faces that characterized the influences of the collection. However, the strength of the collection was recycling, the fabrics used being leftovers from previous collections.
Maria Gambina presented the “Otherness”, an urban collection with a strong influence on hockey. The silhouettes were in ‘Y’, with oversized jackets and contrasting tights pants. The blue and red emerged as a point of color between black and white pieces. The makeup was simple and pretty, with smoky eyes, lashes and nude lips. Focus was on the fringes on the clothing and the hair of the models, which were wrapped in a black cap with platinum blond hair on top, marked a ridge.
The guest designer, Peter Drzal, presented a quick game of relaxed compositions in his collection “Go, Now, Here” inspired by American football pictures and a futuristic version of the gentleman look. Smooth lines, fluid and transparent fabrics; Shades of wine, ocher, brown and a vibrant blue gave more life to the pieces. Highlight were prints in arabesque, bicolor pieces, colored collars and cuffs. The men stood out at times by their red shoes, sometimes by hats, while the women paraded with beautiful make-up including smoky eyes in earthy shades and burgundy lips.
The main runway shows of the day were by Miguel Vieira, Nuno Baltazar and Nuno Gama, undoubtedly the major highlights of this sumptuous evening.
Betting on the classic cut, perfect modeling and the quality of fabrics, Miguel Vieira proposed “Vestir o Fado” (Dress up the Fado) in an elegant collection that “redefines and revitalizes the form of approach to culture and the root of fado.” The designer used leather and fur, as well as pure wool, egyptian cotton, jacquard, velvet silk and duchese satin. The elegance of black was increased with shades of gold, gray, green, brown and beige. For men it was tailored cuts in structured pieces, while for women, slim silhouette and hourglass shapes, enhancing the sensuality of a classic design with contemporary details. Highlight were on the gloves and the wonderful shoes. The makeup was in shades of brown, with heavily lined eyes in black and brown lips. The models had their hair aside, wet and tied with big glasses and beautiful earrings. The geek chic style also fell upon men.
With interpretations of Pina Bausch’s universe and the song “The Man I Love” – the theme of this collection – from George and Ira Gershwin Gershin, the designer Nuno Baltazar had created pieces designed at the movement level, with many draping, ruffles and trompe l’oeil effects. Overwrought shoulders, extra-large coats, fluid fabrics and warm colors resulted in a demi-couture, easy-wear, urban, feminine and sophisticated collection, despite cuts of masculine inspirations. Contrasting with black, the designer used the warm tones of orange and red to make the pieces more vibrant, and also earth tones, nude and gold. Marked cheeks and bright red lips were the highlights in makeup.
To finish with a golden ticket, the busiest show of the night was the designer Nuno Gama. “Be God’s” showed a stylish and refined collection for a grown man, sure of himself yet careful, that left a trail of a sensual virility in the air. The cut, the wearability and excellence of the materials were under a code much more clean and relaxed, where the focus was in the details. Blazers in a traditional construction with shirts or mesh in luxurious materials and tight pants comprised an elongated silhouette for these new urban gentlemen. Shades of brown, blue, chocolate, gray, mustard and burgundy gave much more glow to this collection. Highlights were berets and cheeky mustaches.
For the last day we had Ricardo Andrez (LAB), Marques’ Almeida (LAB), Ricardo Dourado, Pedro Pedro, Alexandra Moura and Felipe Faísca to delight the audience with their wonderful collections.