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As the Moda Lisboa, Lisbon Fashion Week comes to an end, it was a beautiful sunny day in the Portuguese capital. It was the day of six talented designers showed their bets for the autumn winter collection.
The first two runway shows were from the LAB platform. It started with the menswear designer, Ricardo Andrez, who presented a collection full of lively and vivid colors in a sporty style. Then came Marques’ Almeida and his collection “youth, effortless and coll” inspired by the grunge of the 90s, with oversized silhouettes mixed with fairer ones in shades of gray, black and acid yellow. The makeup was soft, with discreet smoky eye and a slight touch of color on the lips.
Ricardo Dourado introduced his first menswear work with a collection called “Rioters.” Following the trend seen in all the days of Lisbon Fashion Week, contrasting materials and oversized pieces were the focus of the collections. The star of next season was also present, the blue appeared in two beautiful shades plus black and gray. The makeup was very discreet, without much detail.
Opening the main hall for the most expected runway shows of the day, Pedro Pedro presented a charming collection that stood between the classic, sporty and urban chic, resulting in a fashion “streetwear couture materials” in black pieces, prints, shades of brown, orange, beige and exquisite shades of blue. Despite some oversized items, the collection “Urban Mix” managed to maintain an elegant and elongated silhouette. The hair were pulled up carelessly and the makeup reused the soft smoky eyes and nude lips.
Alexandra Moura introduced the concept of “Agri…Doce” (“Bitter…Sweet”) to her collection, which emerged from the need to work the comfort of the most structured and the most romantic details, blending city world with rural to find the perfect balance. The “Bitter” refers to heavier lines, urban, predominantly black, while the “Sweet” refers to the romance, the floral pattern in shades of red, white and a greater smoothness in the pieces. Therefore, the collection is based on opposites, male/female, light/heavy, structured/romantic, large/fair, short/long, rural/urban. Makeup consisted of eyes softly delineated and vibrant red lips. On their heads, all models wore a leather cap.
Filípe Faísca was the closing designer of this edition of the legendary Portuguese fashion event, and he did so in style. With a dramatic entrance to the sound of rain, thunder and birds, the collection proposed a structured silhouette and the idea of protection. For this purpose to be accomplished, the designer used many layers of draping, pleats, and oversized coats in contrast with fine fabrics, lace, leather and lots of transparency. The colors played on a palette of shades of gray, beige, black and white to which highlighted this elegant collection. This powerful and feminine women were accentuated by the makeup with a strong eyeliner for a cat eye effect and nude lips, completing the look with big topknots in the hair.
And that was the end, with a lot of class and refinement, another Lisbon Fashion Week with the Portuguese designers projections for the coming autumn/winter collection. But no time to rest, the preparations for the spring/summer 2013 collection have already begun, which will be launched at the next Moda Lisboa in october, 2012.