On a hot afternoon in Lisbon, the catwalks was boiling and many designers were cheered and received standing ovations in another great night of Moda Lisboa — the Lisbon Fashion Week. The designers on Saturday gave a formidable show of elegance and sophistication. The excellence of the materials, the maturity of the collection the cut and details of the pieces provided refinement worthy of a gala evening.

The hot Lisbon afternoon began with the parade of jewelry designer Valentine Quaresma. Based on microscopic pictorial patterns, the collection was titled “Virus”, investing in silver as a trend.

The second and third show were from the LAB. The first by Os Burgueses, who presented the collection “Home”, proposing a “journey in discovery [of] what binds us to each other” with a lot of synthetic leather, poplin and jersey pieces in predominantly black and gray, but red and dark blue was present to liven the casual look for day and night. The menswear designer Daniel Diniz presented the second show from the LAB platform. With a very basic proposal and sportswear influenced by Tibet, what we saw was a “mixture of baseball players, Tibetan monks, nomads, vagabonds and martial art fighters.” The highlight was bare feet and “dirty” faces that characterized the influences of the collection. However, the strength of the collection was recycling, the fabrics used being leftovers from previous collections.

Os Burgueses - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Maria Gambina presented the “Otherness”, an urban collection with a strong influence on hockey. The silhouettes were in ‘Y’, with oversized jackets and contrasting tights pants. The blue and red emerged as a point of color between black and white pieces. The makeup was simple and pretty, with smoky eyes, lashes and nude lips. Focus was on the fringes on the clothing and the hair of the models, which were wrapped in a black cap with platinum blond hair on top, marked a ridge.

Maria Gambina - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The guest designer, Peter Drzal, presented a quick game of relaxed compositions in his collection “Go, Now, Here” inspired by American football pictures and a futuristic version of the gentleman look. Smooth lines, fluid and transparent fabrics; Shades of wine, ocher, brown and a vibrant blue gave more life to the pieces. Highlight were prints in arabesque, bicolor pieces, colored collars and cuffs. The men stood out at times by their red shoes, sometimes by hats, while the women paraded with beautiful make-up including smoky eyes in earthy shades and burgundy lips.

Peter Drzal - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The main runway shows of the day were by Miguel Vieira, Nuno Baltazar and Nuno Gama, undoubtedly the major highlights of this sumptuous evening.

Nuno Gama - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Betting on the classic cut, perfect modeling and the quality of fabrics, Miguel Vieira proposed “Vestir o Fado” (Dress up the Fado) in an elegant collection that “redefines and revitalizes the form of approach to culture and the root of fado.” The designer used leather and fur, as well as pure wool, egyptian cotton, jacquard, velvet silk and duchese satin. The elegance of black was increased with shades of gold, gray, green, brown and beige. For men it was tailored cuts in structured pieces, while for women, slim silhouette and hourglass shapes, enhancing the sensuality of a classic design with contemporary details. Highlight were on the gloves and the wonderful shoes. The makeup was in shades of brown, with heavily lined eyes in black and brown lips. The models had their hair aside, wet and tied with big glasses and beautiful earrings. The geek chic style also fell upon men.

Miguel Vieira - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

With interpretations of Pina Bausch’s universe and the song “The Man I Love” – the theme of this collection – from George and Ira Gershwin Gershin, the designer Nuno Baltazar had created pieces designed at the movement level, with many draping, ruffles and trompe l’oeil effects. Overwrought shoulders, extra-large coats, fluid fabrics and warm colors resulted in a demi-couture, easy-wear, urban, feminine and sophisticated collection, despite cuts of masculine inspirations. Contrasting with black, the designer used the warm tones of orange and red to make the pieces more vibrant, and also earth tones, nude and gold. Marked cheeks and bright red lips were the highlights in makeup.

To finish with a golden ticket, the busiest show of the night was the designer Nuno Gama. “Be God’s” showed a stylish and refined collection for a grown man, sure of himself yet careful, that left a trail of a sensual virility in the air. The cut, the wearability and excellence of the materials were under a code much more clean and relaxed, where the focus was in the details. Blazers in a traditional construction with shirts or mesh in luxurious materials and tight pants comprised an elongated silhouette for these new urban gentlemen. Shades of brown, blue, chocolate, gray, mustard and burgundy gave much more glow to this collection. Highlights were berets and cheeky mustaches.

Nuno Gama - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

For the last day we had Ricardo Andrez (LAB), Marques’ Almeida (LAB), Ricardo Dourado, Pedro Pedro, Alexandra Moura and Felipe Faísca to delight the audience with their wonderful collections.

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The second day of Lisbon Fashion Week revealed a host of new trends and the creativity of designers surprised the audience.

The night began with the collection of V!itor, another talent from LAB platform which we mentioned in our previous report. Under the theme “Life and Death”, the designer sought to celebrate life through death, as could be seen in veils that covered the faces of the models like in a funeral cortege. He was inspired by the work of Marina Abramovic, resulting in a somber collection due to the predominance of black in very comfortable pieces. Tight trousers, large blouses and cleavages were present in this collection. The makeup was very simple, with just a slight tone of orange on the eyelids and nude lips.

V!itor - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The second show of the night squandered originality with an unusual entrance. Everyone thought it was going to be a quick show because the all models entered and left together on the catwalk, the music stopped and the lights went out. However, after initial moments of doubt, the models returned one by one dressed in the charming collection by Katty Xiomara. In addition to basic black and gray, blue, pale pink, nude and purple tones made all the difference in the collection, giving lightness and femininity to the look. The colorful details in the collars, bars, shoulders and wrists gave extra charm to spare. With the exception of glasses painted on the models faces, the makeup was very light, just eyeliner, long lashes, coral lipstick and peach blush.

Katty Xiomara - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The grand entrance of Dino Alves was only the prelude to his exuberant collection. The goal of the designer was to play with shadows and what they can reveal. The contrast between stamped or colored parts and the simpler and more neutral colors was the key point of collection. Besides the many prints, oversized pieces mixed with tight ones, asymmetry and many slits helped to compose an elongated silhouette, making up austere and fluid pieces in the collection. The highlight was the colors: red, gold, blue gray, gradients and prints. The use of transparent fabric and overlaps remain in this collection, and the oriental inspiration. Pulled eyeliner and strong colors on the lips were the makeup highlights.

Dino Alves - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

To end the shows on Friday, Ricardo Preto presented a beautiful and elegant collection. Betting on the sobriety of the pieces, the designer’s goal was to highlight the colors that stand out in Portugal, resulting in a collection with new cuts and silhouettes inspired by the present and future. The highlight was on cleavages and the use of pleated fabrics that enhance sensuality. Fluid fabrics, colored lining, oversized and asymmetrical jackets with a mens cut also gained prominence in the collection along with the use of vibrant colors such as green, mustard and a beautiful dark pink, besides the white pieces contrasting with the traditional dark colors of the season. A strong makeup with smoky eyes and blush marking the cheeks was the make-up theme while hair centered around a bun made of dreadlocks.

Ricardo Preto - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

For the third day of the event, eight designers will show their collections and inspirations for next fall/winter. Highlights from the guest lists include Peter Drzal, Miguel Vieira, Nuno Baltazar and Nuno Gama.

Images & Story: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

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The fashion world in Lisbon is celebrating: Yesterday began the 38th edition of Lisbon Fashion Week, Moda Lisboa, with their prospects for the next autumn/winter collection. Under the theme ‘Freedom’, the designers have abused their creativity in collections that promise a lot of vivacity and sensuality.

The night began with the premiere of Say My Name, a new talent launched by the LAB platform. Catarina Siqueira sought oriental inspiration in samurais and kimonos to design their pieces. This inspiration generated oversized look, but with a strong structure that resembles the armor of warriors (including armor accessories) as overlapping plates (shoulders and abdomen) and raglan sleeves. The asymmetry in blocks of colors was the key point in this collection. To contrast with the traditional black of the season, the designer chose shades of cooper, orange and a soft tone of lavender. The sum of these factors makes the designs result in a casual and comfortable look prioritizing jersey and the felt 3D technology. The makeup was simple; a well-made skin with almost no blush, emphasis on black eyeliner and a brown shade imitating the trace of the eyeliner in the concave of the eye. The hair also had oriental inspiration.

Say My Name - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The second fashion show was provided by the White Tent. The designer pair bet on a minimalist collection, with comfort and usability at the center of their pieces. The predominantly black was broken with a beautiful shade of blue, pink, orange and copper tones. Adidas sneakers fit perfectly with the minimal and sportive propose of the dual. Again, the jersey was present in a collection to give life and asymmetries to the overlapping pieces. For hair and makeup the word of order was convenience, following the trend of the clothes with a healthy skin tone with just slightly smoky eyelids in shades of gray and blue and a casual hair bun.

White Tent - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The collection of the Bosnian designer Lidija Kolovrat showed off pieces that “are themselves a study” to explore more casual ways to use them. The pieces have been restructured following the oversized trend with a strong asymmetry. The goal of the designer was to explore the shapes and create vertical silhouettes to involve the body, in contrast with the draped structured forms and transparency. Besides the classic black and gray, the color palette had shades of purple, blue and graphic prints. The detail in the makeup was on account of a dramatic cat eye, but the highlight of the production was the hat with long hairpieces.

Lidija Kolovrat - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

To end the first night in a big way, Louis Buchinho squandered sensuality and elegance on a collection made to move from the runway to the Portuguese sidewalks. The goal of the designer was “put the sidewalk in high heels”, betting on tight lines to give femininity and sensuality to your creation. The collection was marked by the graphics and the asymmetry that the Portuguese sidewalk provide, which were highlighted by the sobriety of the chosen colors, shades of gray, beige and blue, and the classic black and white. The makeup and hair were simple and followed the autumn/winter trend showed in the fashion weeks of Milan and Paris; loose and slightly curled hair allied with beautiful lips in a fabulous shade of wine to make the models look divine.

Louis Buchinho - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Not just the catwalk, which was an explosion of creativity and style, did justice to the theme of this fashion week: The onlookers were equally dressed in the code of ‘Freedom’. Always eclectic, the style of the public made the smooth transitions between the classic and modern in the blink of an eye, a mix of styles, colors and accessories, making the crowd around you a second fashion show as soon as the main one turn off the lights.

Today the event continues with the collections of V!tor (LAB), Katty Xiomara, Dino Alves and Ricardo Preto. With great expectations we look forward to the second night of the Lisbon Fashion Week 2012.

Images & Story: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

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