As the Moda Lisboa, Lisbon Fashion Week comes to an end, it was a beautiful sunny day in the Portuguese capital. It was the day of six talented designers showed their bets for the autumn winter collection.

The first two runway shows were from the LAB platform. It started with the menswear designer, Ricardo Andrez, who presented a collection full of lively and vivid colors in a sporty style. Then came Marques’ Almeida and his collection “youth, effortless and coll” inspired by the grunge of the 90s, with oversized silhouettes mixed with fairer ones in shades of gray, black and acid yellow. The makeup was soft, with discreet smoky eye and a slight touch of color on the lips.

Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Ricardo Dourado introduced his first menswear work with a collection called “Rioters.” Following the trend seen in all the days of Lisbon Fashion Week, contrasting materials and oversized pieces were the focus of the collections. The star of next season was also present, the blue appeared in two beautiful shades plus black and gray. The makeup was very discreet, without much detail.

Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Opening the main hall for the most expected runway shows of the day, Pedro Pedro presented a charming collection that stood between the classic, sporty and urban chic, resulting in a fashion “streetwear couture materials” in black pieces, prints, shades of brown, orange, beige and exquisite shades of blue. Despite some oversized items, the collection “Urban Mix” managed to maintain an elegant and elongated silhouette. The hair were pulled up carelessly and the makeup reused the soft smoky eyes and nude lips.

Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Alexandra Moura introduced the concept of “Agri…Doce” (“Bitter…Sweet”) to her collection, which emerged from the need to work the comfort of the most structured and the most romantic details, blending city world with rural to find the perfect balance. The “Bitter” refers to heavier lines, urban, predominantly black, while the “Sweet” refers to the romance, the floral pattern in shades of red, white and a greater smoothness in the pieces. Therefore, the collection is based on opposites, male/female, light/heavy, structured/romantic, large/fair, short/long, rural/urban. Makeup consisted of eyes softly delineated and vibrant red lips. On their heads, all models wore a leather cap.

Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Filípe Faísca was the closing designer of this edition of the legendary Portuguese fashion event, and he did so in style. With a dramatic entrance to the sound of rain, thunder and birds, the collection proposed a structured silhouette and the idea of protection. For this purpose to be accomplished, the designer used many layers of draping, pleats, and oversized coats in contrast with fine fabrics, lace, leather and lots of transparency. The colors played on a palette of shades of gray, beige, black and white to which highlighted this elegant collection. This powerful and feminine women were accentuated by the makeup with a strong eyeliner for a cat eye effect and nude lips, completing the look with big topknots in the hair.

Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

And that was the end, with a lot of class and refinement, another Lisbon Fashion Week with the Portuguese designers projections for the coming autumn/winter collection. But no time to rest, the preparations for the spring/summer 2013 collection have already begun, which will be launched at the next Moda Lisboa in october, 2012.

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The second day of Lisbon Fashion Week revealed a host of new trends and the creativity of designers surprised the audience.

The night began with the collection of V!itor, another talent from LAB platform which we mentioned in our previous report. Under the theme “Life and Death”, the designer sought to celebrate life through death, as could be seen in veils that covered the faces of the models like in a funeral cortege. He was inspired by the work of Marina Abramovic, resulting in a somber collection due to the predominance of black in very comfortable pieces. Tight trousers, large blouses and cleavages were present in this collection. The makeup was very simple, with just a slight tone of orange on the eyelids and nude lips.

V!itor - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The second show of the night squandered originality with an unusual entrance. Everyone thought it was going to be a quick show because the all models entered and left together on the catwalk, the music stopped and the lights went out. However, after initial moments of doubt, the models returned one by one dressed in the charming collection by Katty Xiomara. In addition to basic black and gray, blue, pale pink, nude and purple tones made all the difference in the collection, giving lightness and femininity to the look. The colorful details in the collars, bars, shoulders and wrists gave extra charm to spare. With the exception of glasses painted on the models faces, the makeup was very light, just eyeliner, long lashes, coral lipstick and peach blush.

Katty Xiomara - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The grand entrance of Dino Alves was only the prelude to his exuberant collection. The goal of the designer was to play with shadows and what they can reveal. The contrast between stamped or colored parts and the simpler and more neutral colors was the key point of collection. Besides the many prints, oversized pieces mixed with tight ones, asymmetry and many slits helped to compose an elongated silhouette, making up austere and fluid pieces in the collection. The highlight was the colors: red, gold, blue gray, gradients and prints. The use of transparent fabric and overlaps remain in this collection, and the oriental inspiration. Pulled eyeliner and strong colors on the lips were the makeup highlights.

Dino Alves - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

To end the shows on Friday, Ricardo Preto presented a beautiful and elegant collection. Betting on the sobriety of the pieces, the designer’s goal was to highlight the colors that stand out in Portugal, resulting in a collection with new cuts and silhouettes inspired by the present and future. The highlight was on cleavages and the use of pleated fabrics that enhance sensuality. Fluid fabrics, colored lining, oversized and asymmetrical jackets with a mens cut also gained prominence in the collection along with the use of vibrant colors such as green, mustard and a beautiful dark pink, besides the white pieces contrasting with the traditional dark colors of the season. A strong makeup with smoky eyes and blush marking the cheeks was the make-up theme while hair centered around a bun made of dreadlocks.

Ricardo Preto - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

For the third day of the event, eight designers will show their collections and inspirations for next fall/winter. Highlights from the guest lists include Peter Drzal, Miguel Vieira, Nuno Baltazar and Nuno Gama.

Images & Story: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

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The fashion world in Lisbon is celebrating: Yesterday began the 38th edition of Lisbon Fashion Week, Moda Lisboa, with their prospects for the next autumn/winter collection. Under the theme ‘Freedom’, the designers have abused their creativity in collections that promise a lot of vivacity and sensuality.

The night began with the premiere of Say My Name, a new talent launched by the LAB platform. Catarina Siqueira sought oriental inspiration in samurais and kimonos to design their pieces. This inspiration generated oversized look, but with a strong structure that resembles the armor of warriors (including armor accessories) as overlapping plates (shoulders and abdomen) and raglan sleeves. The asymmetry in blocks of colors was the key point in this collection. To contrast with the traditional black of the season, the designer chose shades of cooper, orange and a soft tone of lavender. The sum of these factors makes the designs result in a casual and comfortable look prioritizing jersey and the felt 3D technology. The makeup was simple; a well-made skin with almost no blush, emphasis on black eyeliner and a brown shade imitating the trace of the eyeliner in the concave of the eye. The hair also had oriental inspiration.

Say My Name - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The second fashion show was provided by the White Tent. The designer pair bet on a minimalist collection, with comfort and usability at the center of their pieces. The predominantly black was broken with a beautiful shade of blue, pink, orange and copper tones. Adidas sneakers fit perfectly with the minimal and sportive propose of the dual. Again, the jersey was present in a collection to give life and asymmetries to the overlapping pieces. For hair and makeup the word of order was convenience, following the trend of the clothes with a healthy skin tone with just slightly smoky eyelids in shades of gray and blue and a casual hair bun.

White Tent - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The collection of the Bosnian designer Lidija Kolovrat showed off pieces that “are themselves a study” to explore more casual ways to use them. The pieces have been restructured following the oversized trend with a strong asymmetry. The goal of the designer was to explore the shapes and create vertical silhouettes to involve the body, in contrast with the draped structured forms and transparency. Besides the classic black and gray, the color palette had shades of purple, blue and graphic prints. The detail in the makeup was on account of a dramatic cat eye, but the highlight of the production was the hat with long hairpieces.

Lidija Kolovrat - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

To end the first night in a big way, Louis Buchinho squandered sensuality and elegance on a collection made to move from the runway to the Portuguese sidewalks. The goal of the designer was “put the sidewalk in high heels”, betting on tight lines to give femininity and sensuality to your creation. The collection was marked by the graphics and the asymmetry that the Portuguese sidewalk provide, which were highlighted by the sobriety of the chosen colors, shades of gray, beige and blue, and the classic black and white. The makeup and hair were simple and followed the autumn/winter trend showed in the fashion weeks of Milan and Paris; loose and slightly curled hair allied with beautiful lips in a fabulous shade of wine to make the models look divine.

Louis Buchinho - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Not just the catwalk, which was an explosion of creativity and style, did justice to the theme of this fashion week: The onlookers were equally dressed in the code of ‘Freedom’. Always eclectic, the style of the public made the smooth transitions between the classic and modern in the blink of an eye, a mix of styles, colors and accessories, making the crowd around you a second fashion show as soon as the main one turn off the lights.

Today the event continues with the collections of V!tor (LAB), Katty Xiomara, Dino Alves and Ricardo Preto. With great expectations we look forward to the second night of the Lisbon Fashion Week 2012.

Images & Story: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

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