As the Moda Lisboa, Lisbon Fashion Week comes to an end, it was a beautiful sunny day in the Portuguese capital. It was the day of six talented designers showed their bets for the autumn winter collection.

The first two runway shows were from the LAB platform. It started with the menswear designer, Ricardo Andrez, who presented a collection full of lively and vivid colors in a sporty style. Then came Marques’ Almeida and his collection “youth, effortless and coll” inspired by the grunge of the 90s, with oversized silhouettes mixed with fairer ones in shades of gray, black and acid yellow. The makeup was soft, with discreet smoky eye and a slight touch of color on the lips.

Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Ricardo Dourado introduced his first menswear work with a collection called “Rioters.” Following the trend seen in all the days of Lisbon Fashion Week, contrasting materials and oversized pieces were the focus of the collections. The star of next season was also present, the blue appeared in two beautiful shades plus black and gray. The makeup was very discreet, without much detail.

Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Opening the main hall for the most expected runway shows of the day, Pedro Pedro presented a charming collection that stood between the classic, sporty and urban chic, resulting in a fashion “streetwear couture materials” in black pieces, prints, shades of brown, orange, beige and exquisite shades of blue. Despite some oversized items, the collection “Urban Mix” managed to maintain an elegant and elongated silhouette. The hair were pulled up carelessly and the makeup reused the soft smoky eyes and nude lips.

Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Alexandra Moura introduced the concept of “Agri…Doce” (“Bitter…Sweet”) to her collection, which emerged from the need to work the comfort of the most structured and the most romantic details, blending city world with rural to find the perfect balance. The “Bitter” refers to heavier lines, urban, predominantly black, while the “Sweet” refers to the romance, the floral pattern in shades of red, white and a greater smoothness in the pieces. Therefore, the collection is based on opposites, male/female, light/heavy, structured/romantic, large/fair, short/long, rural/urban. Makeup consisted of eyes softly delineated and vibrant red lips. On their heads, all models wore a leather cap.

Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Filípe Faísca was the closing designer of this edition of the legendary Portuguese fashion event, and he did so in style. With a dramatic entrance to the sound of rain, thunder and birds, the collection proposed a structured silhouette and the idea of protection. For this purpose to be accomplished, the designer used many layers of draping, pleats, and oversized coats in contrast with fine fabrics, lace, leather and lots of transparency. The colors played on a palette of shades of gray, beige, black and white to which highlighted this elegant collection. This powerful and feminine women were accentuated by the makeup with a strong eyeliner for a cat eye effect and nude lips, completing the look with big topknots in the hair.

Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

And that was the end, with a lot of class and refinement, another Lisbon Fashion Week with the Portuguese designers projections for the coming autumn/winter collection. But no time to rest, the preparations for the spring/summer 2013 collection have already begun, which will be launched at the next Moda Lisboa in october, 2012.

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On a hot afternoon in Lisbon, the catwalks was boiling and many designers were cheered and received standing ovations in another great night of Moda Lisboa — the Lisbon Fashion Week. The designers on Saturday gave a formidable show of elegance and sophistication. The excellence of the materials, the maturity of the collection the cut and details of the pieces provided refinement worthy of a gala evening.

The hot Lisbon afternoon began with the parade of jewelry designer Valentine Quaresma. Based on microscopic pictorial patterns, the collection was titled “Virus”, investing in silver as a trend.

The second and third show were from the LAB. The first by Os Burgueses, who presented the collection “Home”, proposing a “journey in discovery [of] what binds us to each other” with a lot of synthetic leather, poplin and jersey pieces in predominantly black and gray, but red and dark blue was present to liven the casual look for day and night. The menswear designer Daniel Diniz presented the second show from the LAB platform. With a very basic proposal and sportswear influenced by Tibet, what we saw was a “mixture of baseball players, Tibetan monks, nomads, vagabonds and martial art fighters.” The highlight was bare feet and “dirty” faces that characterized the influences of the collection. However, the strength of the collection was recycling, the fabrics used being leftovers from previous collections.

Os Burgueses - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Maria Gambina presented the “Otherness”, an urban collection with a strong influence on hockey. The silhouettes were in ‘Y’, with oversized jackets and contrasting tights pants. The blue and red emerged as a point of color between black and white pieces. The makeup was simple and pretty, with smoky eyes, lashes and nude lips. Focus was on the fringes on the clothing and the hair of the models, which were wrapped in a black cap with platinum blond hair on top, marked a ridge.

Maria Gambina - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The guest designer, Peter Drzal, presented a quick game of relaxed compositions in his collection “Go, Now, Here” inspired by American football pictures and a futuristic version of the gentleman look. Smooth lines, fluid and transparent fabrics; Shades of wine, ocher, brown and a vibrant blue gave more life to the pieces. Highlight were prints in arabesque, bicolor pieces, colored collars and cuffs. The men stood out at times by their red shoes, sometimes by hats, while the women paraded with beautiful make-up including smoky eyes in earthy shades and burgundy lips.

Peter Drzal - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

The main runway shows of the day were by Miguel Vieira, Nuno Baltazar and Nuno Gama, undoubtedly the major highlights of this sumptuous evening.

Nuno Gama - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

Betting on the classic cut, perfect modeling and the quality of fabrics, Miguel Vieira proposed “Vestir o Fado” (Dress up the Fado) in an elegant collection that “redefines and revitalizes the form of approach to culture and the root of fado.” The designer used leather and fur, as well as pure wool, egyptian cotton, jacquard, velvet silk and duchese satin. The elegance of black was increased with shades of gold, gray, green, brown and beige. For men it was tailored cuts in structured pieces, while for women, slim silhouette and hourglass shapes, enhancing the sensuality of a classic design with contemporary details. Highlight were on the gloves and the wonderful shoes. The makeup was in shades of brown, with heavily lined eyes in black and brown lips. The models had their hair aside, wet and tied with big glasses and beautiful earrings. The geek chic style also fell upon men.

Miguel Vieira - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

With interpretations of Pina Bausch’s universe and the song “The Man I Love” – the theme of this collection – from George and Ira Gershwin Gershin, the designer Nuno Baltazar had created pieces designed at the movement level, with many draping, ruffles and trompe l’oeil effects. Overwrought shoulders, extra-large coats, fluid fabrics and warm colors resulted in a demi-couture, easy-wear, urban, feminine and sophisticated collection, despite cuts of masculine inspirations. Contrasting with black, the designer used the warm tones of orange and red to make the pieces more vibrant, and also earth tones, nude and gold. Marked cheeks and bright red lips were the highlights in makeup.

To finish with a golden ticket, the busiest show of the night was the designer Nuno Gama. “Be God’s” showed a stylish and refined collection for a grown man, sure of himself yet careful, that left a trail of a sensual virility in the air. The cut, the wearability and excellence of the materials were under a code much more clean and relaxed, where the focus was in the details. Blazers in a traditional construction with shirts or mesh in luxurious materials and tight pants comprised an elongated silhouette for these new urban gentlemen. Shades of brown, blue, chocolate, gray, mustard and burgundy gave much more glow to this collection. Highlights were berets and cheeky mustaches.

Nuno Gama - Credit: Larissa Barros Fabiao do Nascimento & Tuane Oliveira Formiga

For the last day we had Ricardo Andrez (LAB), Marques’ Almeida (LAB), Ricardo Dourado, Pedro Pedro, Alexandra Moura and Felipe Faísca to delight the audience with their wonderful collections.

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The last day of Moda Lisboa was a continuity of a spectacular fashion show, Daniel Diniz, a Portuguese designer, started off with a different kind of show. Male models came down the catwalk in bathing trunks and started to dress up in front of the public. The summer collection of Diniz is based on white, gray, and ecru colors but includes Portuguese inspiration through tons of blue, connected to the traditional and famous decor of cities around Portugal. The clothes combined comfort and lightness for men the next summer.

The next collection, creations by Marques’Almeida, presented a relaxed and young look for women based on street style. The blue tones and white contrast were predominant in the oversized clothes with distinct silhouette mainly in denin, cotton and silk.

Following the schedule, Katty Xiomara brought a feminine collection inspired by butterflies to women, displayed through the movements and flow in dresses and skirts, colors, mainly orange, yellow, white, black, gray and nude tons, and marked belt. She offered an amazing show full of elegance and class for the next spring/summer season.

Glamour is without doubt the best word for the runway of Miguel Vieira. Men and women in preparation of an elegant trip were the inspiration of the designer. White was combined with gold details or in the case of the men’s wear, a colorful touch.

Aleksandar Protic brought black, marfin and red colors to women’s dress, playing with transparence and strong cuts. Sensual clothes with personality were presented this time and the audience was really impressed with this great collection.

The night continued and one of the most famous and anticipated designers, Nuno Gama, started off. His menswear collection showed high quality work and it could not be any different as his inspiration comes from ‘pleasures in life’. In an interview, he told to Toonari Post:

My inspiration is from my life, my friends, my family, my Portugal, my travels, my experience. (..) The secret is just to stay in love and then I have the joy and pleasure to work and bring this to the clothes.

Nuno Gama collection left the public breathless and was strongly applauded by everybody.

Ricardo Dourado presented a sport deluxe collection for both men and women. It was a street style in black, gray and white with interesting cuts. For men, once more the fake skirts were aired for the next summer. Cotton gave the touch of comfort and free movement to his collection.

Closing this 2011 edition of Moda Lisboa, the last designer Dino Alves came with an overload of lace and embroidery combined with strong colors. His idea is new romantic and new chic. He is famous for inspiring new trends and we believe he did it again.

The Moda Lisboa Fashion Week 2011 is over but the gorgeous trends for the next spring/summer was graciously shown in this great event by the remarkable designers.

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